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The Big Bend

Regional Information

Big Bend National Park

With over 801,000 acres to explore covering terrain from river canyons, to desert, to mountains. The entire Chisos Mountain range is surrounded by Chihuahuan Desert. The Rio Grande carves canyons through limestone cliffs. Remnants of old farmsteads, a hotspring bathhouse, and pictographs paint a picture of the past. 

Big Bend Ranch State Park

This is the largest State Park in Texas with over 311,000 acres. There are miles of trails for hiking, mountain biking, and horseback riding. If you want to get remote and rugged, there is plenty of 4X4 touring, backpacking loops, and the Colorado Canyon of the Rio Grande to float through. Now deserted, cinnabar ore mining camps were among some of the first primary settlements in the area.

Lajitas, TX

Tucked between Big Bend National Park and Big Bend Ranch State Park, this 27,000 acre resort town has an Old West feel. There is a golf course, shooting range, equestrian center, and charter jet service. 

Visit Big Bend

General guide for tourism. Including lodging, restaurants, and weather. 

Recommended Budget Accomodations:

Terlingua Nights: 432-239-0007

Longhorn Ranch: 432-371-2541

Space Cowboys in Terlingua
Space Pods & Star Gazing 
609-937-0917

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         The Summit

For a unique lodging experience, stay in a luxury cave or stargazing dome!

432-777-7866

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Geology  

Big Bend National Park

  From 500 to 300 million years ago (mya), the Big Bend area was part of a deep-ocean trough that extended from present-day Arkansas to West Texas.  Accumulating sediments became beds of sandstone and shale.  About 300 mya, pressure from continental movement forced these beds upward forming the Appalachian and Ouachita Mountains, the western roots of which are near Persimmon Gap, in the Big Bend National Park.

  Around 135 mya, during the Cretaceous Period, a warm shallow sea covered the Big Bend- part of the Western Interior Seaway that divided North America.  Tiny calcium-rich organisms were abundant, eventually settling to the ocean floor and becoming the bands of limestone we see today.

  One hundred mya the sea began to retreat to its present location, and dinosaur-filled forests dominated this region.  Near the end of the Cretaceous Period, a massive west-to-east compression of North America built the Rocky Mountains, the second mountain building period in the Big Bend area.  Mariscal Mountains, in Big Bend National Park, is the southernmost extension of the Rocky Mountains in the United States. 

  The end of the Cretaceous Period, 65 mya, marks the most famous extinction on our planet.  By the end of the Cretaceous, the dinosaurs had disappeared, but flowering plants, mollusks, amphibians, lizards, snakes, insects, and mammals all survived the extinction event known as the Cretaceous/ Paleogene (or Tertiary) boundary. The following Paleogene era is called the Age of Mammals, as these furry animals flourished during this time.  The only strata marking this extinction on public land in North America is in Big Bend.

  As early mammals, including horses, rhinoceroses, camels, and various rodents roamed the Big Bend area, the age of volcanism began.  From 43 to 32 mya, volcanic eruptions formed the Chisos Mountains, Sierra Quemada, Castolon area ash deposits, and the numerous dikes, sills, and laccoliths found around Big Bend National Park.  Later, around 26 mya, massive fracture zones created faults that sunk the central part of Big Bend National Park, exposing the cliff faces of the Sierra de Carmens and Mesa de Anguilla.

  Big Bend’s geologic history continues today.  The past 10 million years have been dominated by erosion and sculpting.  The Rio Grande, formed nearly 2 million years ago, continues to carve the vast canyons as the landscape of Big Bend continues to be subject to the sculpting forces of the elements.

 

Parks and Tourism

Big Bend National Park

  By 1930, many people who had enjoyed the prosperity of the Roaring Twenties found themselves in soup lines and tattered clothes.  In the early 1930s, Texas Canyonlands State Park was established in what is now Big Bend National Park. The park got its first set of CCC (Civilian Conservation Corps) boys who built the road into the Chisos Mountains Basin.  Hoping to increase tourism the state park was donated as “Texas’s gift to the nation”.  On June 6, 1944 Amon Carter presents the paperwork to President Franklin D. Roosevelt to become a national park. Six days later the name was changed to Big Bend National Park. The parks got a second set of CCC boys to build the adobe brick and stone cottages in the Chisos Basin.  Tourism has been the main industry ever since.

References

 

Gray, J.E., Page, W.R. (2008). Geological, Geochemical, and Geophysical Studies by the U.S. Geological Survey in Big Bend National Park, Texas: U.S. Geological Survey Circular 1327, 93p.

 

Tyler, Ron. (2010). The Big Bend: A History of the Last Texas Frontier. College Station, TX: Texas A&M University Press.

Cultural History

Early Occupation of the Big Bend

  9500 BC- Early Paleoindian Period (Clovis Culture) Small bands of nomads hunted terminal Ice Age animals such as mammoths and giant bison, in addition to small animals, and harvested wild plants. Primary weapons were spears, used at times with spear throwers (atlatls).  Although they lived throughout this region, there is very little evidence of Clovis people in this region.

  8900 BC- Early Paleoindian Period (Folsom Culture) Small bands of nomads gathered wild plant foods and hunted giant bison and other animals.  Primary weapons were spears, used at times with atlatls. 

  8200 BC- Late Paleoindian Period- A variety of distinct spear point styles and other innovative stone tools suggest several different mobile hunter- gatherer groups were present across this region.  Drier environmental conditions and changing plants and animal communities led to cultural adaptation.  Primary weapons were spears, used at times with atlatls.

  6500 BC- Early Archaic Period- Small bands of hunter- gatherers occupied this region and it is believed that they had more restricted geographical ranges that in earlier times.  With the appearance of groundstone artifacts (such as manos and metates) used to process plant foods, there appears to have been an increased reliance on plant gathering in addition to small game hunting.  Primary weapons were spears and atlatls. 

  5000 BC- Altithermal Period Begins- High temperatures and droughts begins.

  2500 BC- Middle Archaic Period-  Plains bison hunters began entering the area even as existing nomadic hunting gathering lifeways continued.  Increases in the variety and number of spear points and their distribution across the landscape suggest a higher population.  Trade networks developed with groups in surrounding areas.  Primary weaponary consisted of spears and atlatls.

  1000- 300 BC- Wet climate interval- Modern bison enter Big Bend from the High Plains

  AD 700- Transitional Late Archaic to Late Prehistoric- Traditional nomadic hunting and gathering lifeways continued, with intensified use of earth ovens and possibly limited experimentation with agriculture.  By around AD 750 a distinctive nomadic hunting- gathering group (Livemore culture) practicing mountaintop ritualism appeared in the region.  The bow and arrow were introduced at this time, although the spear and spear thrower and wooden throwing (rabbit) sticks were also used.

  AD 1000- Late Prehistoric Period- The first regional Native American villages utilizing pithouse dwellings, ceramics, and agriculture appeared at La Junta around AD 1200, while elsewhere in the Big Bend nomadic hunting and gathering lifeways persisted.  Both nomads and villagers continued to use earth ovens to process wild plant foods.  Extensive trade networks developed between farmers and nomads, and between farmers and other cultural groups in the American Southwest.  A distinctive nomadic group (Cielo complex) using stone based wickiups (hide or brush covered dwellings) appeared by around AD 1250.  Bows and stone tipped arrows were the primary weapons, and use of throwing (rabbit) sticks continued.

  AD 1535- Historic Period- The first Spaniards entered the Big Bend beginning with Cabeza de Vaca.  Spanish entradas in the late 1500s and 1600s led to the establishment of missions (churches) around the junction of the Rio Grande and Rio Conchos (La Junta) by the 1680s.  Spanish presidios (forts) were established on the south bank of the Rio Grande in the late 1700s.  Primary weapons change from bows and stone tipped arrows to bows and iron tipped arrows, and then to guns.  Cultural change and conflict intensified as mounted Apaches and Comanches entered the region from the Southern Plains and harassed local Native Americans, Spanish, Mexican, and Anglo American settlers.

Spaniards, The Republic of Texas, and the 28th State

  Spain became the first European nation to claim what is now Texas, beginning in 1519.  This was more than 100 years before the Pilgrims set foot on Plymouth Rock. Cabeza de Vaca in 1535 was the first Spaniard to reach La Junta (Presidio, TX), but colonization came slowly.  In 1681 the first settlement in Texas that could be called a town was Ysleta, which is present-day El Paso.  Gradually expanding from Mexico, other Spanish missions, forts, and civil settlements followed for nearly a century and-a-half until Mexico won its independence from Spain in 1821.

  Pioneers from the Hispanic south and the Anglo north flowed into Texas.  Land grants were offered to settlers, and empresarios brought groups to take advantage of the generous grants.  Best known were the 300 families brought by Stephen F. Austin.  It was a frontier region.  Anglo Texans became Mexican citizens.  Settlers came in droves, and soon friction between the settlers and Mexico grew into rebellion.  Colonists petitioned Mexico for civil rights.  Austin took the demands to Mexico City and was imprisoned for 2 years on a charge of treason.  Meanwhile, Sam Houston had come to Texas and became the leader of the restless settlers, who now outnumbered the Mexican nationals in Texas by four to one.  The first shots of the Texas Revolution were fired September 1, 1835.  On October 2nd, the battle of Gonzales commenced when the Mexican troops wanted the return of a canon they had loaned the settlers.  Their reply of “Come and Take It” became a rallying cry. The settlers overtook Goliad and San Antonio.  On March 6, 1836, Santa Anna and his troops attack the Alamo. A few weeks later, the Texians triumphed in the Battle of San Jacinto, which won independence for Texas.

  Although the Republic of Texas was an independent nation from 1836-1845, most of its citizens favored statehood.  The U.S. Congress too reluctant to admit another “slave” state delayed acceptance of Texas, but a compromise was reached on December 29, 1845.  Unrest about the actual international boundary sparked yet another war with Mexico. On February 2, 1848, the Treaty of Guadalupe Hidalgo was signed establishing the Rio Grande as the International Boundary.

Ranching and Cinnabar Ore Mining

   The cessation of hostilities between Mexico and the United States saw a marked increase in the number of Americans moving into the Big Bend region establishing large ranches and farms, and facilitating the on-going trade through the area.  In 1854, Fort Davis was established to protect settlers, traders, and travelers passing through the area from the Apache and Comanches.  In 1884 cinnabar ore was discovered and the first mercury mines were opened.  Ranching and farming in the region prospered to help support the growing mining communities.  By the 1930s, the boom and bust era of these industries had seen its heyday. 

 

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